Pattern Terms Dictionary
Japanese words you will see on sewing book covers, pattern sheets and size charts, with readings and English equivalents. Translations are our own general glossary; a book's own notes always take priority.
Jump to: Patterns · Seam allowance · Sizes · Cutting & fabric · Construction
Patterns
| Japanese | Reading | English | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 実物大型紙 | じつぶつだいかたがみ jitsubutsudai katagami | Full-size pattern (sheet) | Printed at actual size, ready to trace. Often 2–4 large folded sheets bound into the book. Also written 実物大パターン. |
| 型紙 | かたがみ katagami | Pattern | Paper pattern pieces. Also called パターン (patān). |
| 製図 | せいず seizu | Drafting diagram | Scaled measurements you draw yourself. No full-size sheet is needed, but you do the drafting. |
| 原型 | げんけい genkei | Basic block / sloper | The base bodice block that designs are drafted from, e.g. Bunka-style (文化式) or Dressmaker-style (ドレメ式). |
| 写す | うつす utsusu | To trace (a pattern) | Pattern sheets usually have overlapping lines for many pieces, so you trace your piece onto separate paper. |
| 線が重なっている | せんがかさなっている sen ga kasanatte iru | Lines overlap (nested sizes or pieces) | Means you must trace rather than cut the sheet. |
| 貼り合わせ | はりあわせ hariawase | Taping (printed pages) together | Used for downloadable PDF patterns printed on A4 sheets. |
Seam allowance
| Japanese | Reading | English | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 縫い代 | ぬいしろ nuishiro | Seam allowance | The fabric between the cut edge and the stitching line. |
| 縫い代つき / 縫い代込み | ぬいしろつき / ぬいしろこみ nuishiro-tsuki / nuishiro-komi | Seam allowance included | The pattern outline already includes the allowance; cut on the outer line. |
| 縫い代をつけて裁つ | ぬいしろをつけてたつ nuishiro o tsukete tatsu | Add seam allowance when cutting | The pattern shows the finished line only; the cutting layout gives the allowance to add (often in cm). |
| 裁ち切り | たちきり tachikiri | Cut as is (no allowance added) | Often seen on bias strips or pieces where no seam allowance is added. |
| 出来上がり線 | できあがりせん dekiagari-sen | Finished (stitching) line |
Sizes
| Japanese | Reading | English | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 参考寸法 / ヌード寸法 | さんこうすんぽう / ヌードすんぽう sankō sunpō / nūdo sunpō | Body measurements (reference) | Measurements of the body the size is drafted for. Choose your size from this chart. |
| 出来上がり寸法 / 出来上がりサイズ | できあがりすんぽう dekiagari sunpō | Finished garment measurements | Measurements of the sewn garment. Includes ease, so it is larger than the body measurement. |
| ゆとり | ゆとり yutori | Ease | The difference between finished and body measurements. |
| 号 | ごう gō | Size number | Numbered sizes (e.g. 7号, 9号) used for blocks and some patterns. |
| 身長 | しんちょう shinchō | Height | Children's sizes are usually named by height in cm (100, 110 …). |
| バスト | バスト basuto | Bust | |
| ウエスト | ウエスト uesuto | Waist | |
| ヒップ | ヒップ hippu | Hip | |
| 背丈 | せたけ setake | Back length (nape to waist) | |
| 着丈 | きたけ kitake | Garment length | |
| 袖丈 | そでたけ sodetake | Sleeve length |
Cutting & fabric
| Japanese | Reading | English | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 裁ち方図 | たちかたず tachikata-zu | Cutting layout | Shows how pieces sit on the fabric, often with allowances in cm. |
| 用尺 | ようじゃく yōjaku | Fabric requirement (yardage) | Given in metres/cm for a stated fabric width. |
| 布目線 | ぬのめせん nunome-sen | Grainline | |
| わ | わ wa | Place on fold | |
| 合印 | あいじるし aijirushi | Notches / matching marks | |
| 表布 | おもてぬの omote-nuno | Main (outer) fabric | |
| 裏布 | うらぬの ura-nuno | Lining fabric | |
| 別布 | べつぬの betsu-nuno | Contrast fabric | |
| 接着芯 | せっちゃくしん setchaku-shin | Fusible interfacing |
Construction
| Japanese | Reading | English | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 見返し | みかえし mikaeshi | Facing | |
| 中表 | なかおもて naka-omote | Right sides together | |
| 外表 | そとおもて soto-omote | Wrong sides together | |
| 返し口 | かえしぐち kaeshi-guchi | Turning opening | |
| 三つ折り | みつおり mitsu-ori | Double-fold hem | |
| ギャザー | ギャザー gyazā | Gathers | |
| タック | タック takku | Tuck / pleat | |
| ダーツ | ダーツ dātsu | Dart | |
| ロックミシン | ロックミシン rokku mishin | Serger / overlocker | |
| ジグザグミシン | ジグザグミシン jiguzagu mishin | Zigzag stitch (to finish edges) | |
| 前中心 / 後ろ中心 | まえちゅうしん / うしろちゅうしん mae-chūshin / ushiro-chūshin | Centre front / centre back |
See how these terms apply to size charts in the Japanese Size Guide, and which books state full-size patterns and seam allowances on the comparison page.